A full system, so I didn’t have to bother with clamps or whatever.These are not the only options, there are plenty. Three options to get shooting anamorphic quickly with the GH5 I just don’t have the patience for this kind of setup, but you might. Mainly I’ve decided to just rent anamorphic glass with PL to MFT adapters. I did all this research to figure out if I really wanted to go this route. The good ones are not cheap! This is the fourth lens in your anamorphic train.Īs you can see, hacking together an anamorphic setup isn’t that simple nor that cheap. There are many powers for diopters, and you’ll need to invest in a whole kit. Once you add all these lenses you lose the ability to focus close (many stop at 3 feet, not close enough for close ups), so you need diopters to get a closer focus distance. It’s an added adapter, and an extra expense because, it, too, needs an optical element in it. If you don’t like to dual focus (who does?), then you need to get a separate mechanism that will allow you to focus using just one ring. Since I shoot professionally there’s no time for DIY solutions. The options I’ll cover in this article all come with clamps, so you don’t have to worry. You don’t want light leaks or alignment issues. This is why you need a clamp, and anything else to get it to work. Many cheap adapters are for projectors, so don’t have a way to get it fixed to a normal lens. The clamp is to mate the adapter with the taking lens. This means you need to focus using two rings – one on the taking lens and then on the anamorphic adapter. This has an optical element that squeezes the image. This limits the kinds of lenses you can use. The diameter and filter size of this lens is an important number, because the next item on our list needs to adapt to it easily. This goes on the camera just like always. E.g., let’s say you have a 50mm f/1.8 lens. A taking lens. This is the normal ‘spherical’ lens.Generally, you need the following things: ![]() So what do I need? I’m not an expert with is, and it took some days of research. The parts of an adapted anamorphic system The true compression of space similar to cinema anamorphic lenses.So as far as I’m concerned, either we need a 1.79x or 2x adapter. You can get this internally with the Cinema 4K setting, which has an aspect ratio of 1.9:1 already. If you’re using 1.5x, you’ll only get 2:1. If you’re using a 2x squeeze, you end up with 2.66:1, as shown above, and you’ll have to crop off the sides to get 2.39:1: This means, to get 2.39:1, you’ll need to squeeze 4:3 to exactly 1.79x. With the Panasonic GH5, the aspect ratio is 4:3, or 1.33:1. I don’t like this because it eliminates many of the advantages of the anamorphic look.īut there’s a catch. 1.33x – this has become popular with the advent of 16:9 sensors.Many projector anamorphic adapters use this ratio as well. The three common squeeze ratios you’re likely to find are: Later in software you have to ‘desqueeze’ it by the same ratio (2x): This means it squeezes the image horizontally two times. Here’s a shot of me with a real anamorphic lens ( Optico-Elite, if you must know) adapted via a PL to MFT adapter ( Amazon, B&H): ![]() I’m assuming you know what an anamorphic lens is and why it’s important to you. The only practical solution that most readers can adopt and try is the anamorphic adapter. SLR Magic makes an anamorphic lens that can directly adapt to MFT, though. So as a general recommendation, it’s not very practical. ![]() But this is not easy, because these lenses don’t show up very often. One way to shoot inexpensively (relatively) is to find a cheap anamorphic lens in the PL mount that can then be adapted to MFT. The Panasonic GH5 Guide is now available! Click here to learn how to make cinematic videos with the Panasonic GH5.
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